There comes a point in every Georgetown student’s life when he can no longer tolerate the food at Leo’s. Starving after a class that ends at 7:30 p.m., that student and his friends decide to find a place to eat. After walking along M Street for 15 minutes, they settle on Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar, a cozy restaurant and bar situated opposite the Four Seasons Hotel. A slightly long journey, especially considering the frigid wind, but a rewarding one nonetheless.
A dining experience is not merely confined to the quality of the food. The ambiance, décor, presentation and service matter too. Mendocino gets top marks for all these factors.
The most striking feature about Mendocino is the interior décor of the restaurant. The main dining area is enclosed by neatly stacked wine bottles on wooden shelves. The incandescent lighting, prompt service and comfortable teak chairs create a homey feel.
The menu at Mendocino is limited, though it changes frequently so that every dining experience is a unique one. The price for appetizers ranges from $10 to $15, entrées from $20 to $49 and desserts from $8 to $12. Though individual selections under a particular category are limited, one can choose from a wide variety of categories, like pasta, seafood, salads, poultry and red meat. The wine list is extensive and eclectic, and although vintages are not available, it features multiple award-winning West Coast selections. A glass of wine ranges from $8 to $15, but there is the option to have the sommelier hand-pick the wines that would best compliment what is ordered for each course.
To accompany Mendocino’s commitment to an exceptional wine experience, the menu features an impressive selection of fine cheeses. Each cheese is described in detail so that the average patron will be able to select the best option as readily as a wine connoisseur. One example of a delectable meal is a frisée salad ($11), olive oil poached king salmon ($28) and a glass of Chardonnay ($9). The salad is just unique enough to offer an alternative to the overdone Caesar salad, with sweet fingerling potatoes, applewood-smoked bacon, poached farm egg and sherry vinaigrette. Similarly, the salmon dish, which would otherwise be simple, is served with surprisingly complimentary potato latkes, sweet and sour red onions and a horseradish crème fraîche. The presentation of the food isn’t not top-notch, but the quality of the ingredients used and the excellent taste make up for that deficiency.
Executive Chef Barry Koslow has brought to Mendocino his experience at renowned D.C. restaurants such as 2941 Restaurant and Circle Bistro. While one atmosphere offered experience in technique-driven cooking, another enabled him to experiment with ingredients and perfect dishes. Koslow is committed to producing dishes that are approachable yet sophisticated, elegant and satisfying. Koslow is also devoted to using organic products from local growers, ranchers and fishermen — but he turns these basic ingredients into impressive and unusual dishes such as his South Carolina quail stuffed with pheasant sausage.
Overall, the venture from Leo’s resulted in a very satisfying dining experience. Things are heating up Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar, making it a restaurant well worth braving the cold Georgetown winter for.