Although it sports a vivid orange banner to attract foot traffic on M Street, Leopold’s Kafe seemed to have escaped me the numerous times I have walked or driven by. The restaurant itself is quietly tucked back in Cady’s Alley, the entrance to which lies across from Qdoba, between 33rd and 34th Streets. Walking into the alley and down the steps, you find the outdoor dining under brightly-colored umbrellas and the door into the restaurant.

Talking to the general manager, Robert Heim, I discovered quite an interesting history behind the place. Leopold’s and Cady’s Alley, along with many other buildings in Georgetown, are owned by Anthony Lanier of EastBanc Reality. As Lanier himself is Austrian, he wanted a true Austrian café in D.C. to frequent. (It is, in fact, directly across the street from his office.) The restaurant is actually one of two in the United States to sell the famous Austrian coffee Julius Meinl. Many arrive at Leopold’s purely in search of this renowned cup of joe.

Originally intended to be called “Astro Café,” the restaurant was eventually named after the architect, whom Heim described as “a 65-year-old Austrian guy named Leopold.” The restaurant’s namesake is apparently still a daily customer who enjoys the restaurant’s coffee and Madeline pastries.

I would have to describe the décor as modern fusion, as it did not remind me of the quiet, cozy cafés that I experienced while actually in Austria. Upon entering, your eyes are directly drawn to the neon orange swirl chairs occupying the room. The chandeliers are also intriguing, especially those that hang directly above the bar and wall-length display case presenting their wide-ranging selection of pastries.

Named one of the top 100 restaurants in the D.C. area for 2008 by Washingtonian Magazine, I was intrigued to discover what this Eastern European restaurant had to offer to satisfy my palate. When at an unfamiliar restaurant, I usually begin by asking the waiter his or her favorites from the menu. The waiter rushed through his “favorites” so fast that I only processed about every other item he named.

After the waiter quickly outlined his picks, my two friends and I noticed that much of what he recommended surprisingly did not include the typical Austrian entrée bratwurst, nor, on the dessert side, the well-known Austrian dessert sachertorte, but rather the more expensive dishes on the menu, such as the skirt steak.
After the waiter speedily reappeared about a minute later, I decided on the croque monsieur, or, in my terms, a fancy, grilled ham and cheese. My companions ordered the tuna niçoise salad and the green salad with herb vinaigrette. All of our food appeared to have been expedited, as it flew out of the kitchen no more than five minutes later.

However rushed we may have felt, the food was pleasantly delicious. While the middle of my grilled sandwich was lukewarm, it was nevertheless very good and my lunchmates agreed that their salads were “fabulous.” The croque monsieur was composed of thin-sliced ham, cheese and small pickles sandwiched together by two slices of bread that I would describe as brioche-like. The grainy mustard decorating the plate was also a tasty condiment and a major component of the dressing in the small frisée salad that accompanied the sandwich, tying the two foods together nicely.
The niçoise, to me, was slightly peculiar because of the fully cooked tuna (possibly right out of the StarKist can) adorning the salad, as the presentation of this dish usually includes raw or slightly seared flakes of meat. The salad also included what appeared to be roasted tomatoes (“the best part”) and green beans covered with a cream-based sauce, all surrounded by an olive tapenade. Yet the green salad stayed true to its name, sporting farmer’s-market quality lettuce.

With the expansive display case full of sweets, the three of us had to make a couple of trips to finally come to a decision, much to our waiter’s vexation. We finally chose the “esterhazy,” which is described in the menu as “five layers of hazelnut cake filled with a light butter cream and toasted almonds.” Personally, I was really excited to try this pastry — Leopold’s prides itself in its treats, and all the desserts in the case could have been on display in an art gallery. Unfortunately, it was prettier to look at from behind the glass and was not worth the outrageous price of nearly $8 a slice.

All in all, I would have to say that the restaurant was worth the trip into hidden Cady’s Alley, but on my next visit — if there is one — I might simply order a cup of the famous Austrian coffee and a Madeline cookie, just like Leopold.